Make Shio Ramen with Chicken Chashu tonight: craft a clear umami broth and tender chicken chashu for perfect bowls.
Combine the dried aromatics with cool water and let time do the work: add kombu pieces, dried shiitake, and iriko/niboshi to the measured water and steep overnight (or at least 4 hours) in the refrigerator if it’s warm. Be mindful not to steep longer than 12 hours to avoid bitterness from the kombu. After steeping, reserve the small portion specified for the shio tare and set it aside. This gentle, cold extraction yields a delicate, umami-rich, translucent stock—soft, slightly briny, and faintly earthy in aroma.
Slice a knob of ginger into a few thin discs and section the Tokyo negi, keeping the Y-shaped piece and some dark green tops for the soup. Add the reserved twelve cups of cold-brewed dashi to a pot with the ground chicken, ginger slices, and those negi pieces; heat gently, breaking the chicken apart with a wooden spatula so it disperses into the liquid. Bring the stock slowly to the point just before boiling, remove and discard the kombu pieces, then simmer gently for 30 minutes so the chicken thoroughly flavors the broth while staying clear. Finish by adding thick katsuobushi shavings and simmering briefly, then strain through a fine mesh to yield a bright, golden, clean-tasting broth—silky, savory, faintly smoky.
Remove the chicken skin and cut it into pieces for later use; place the boneless, skin-on breast into a small pot with salted water (and freshly ground pepper) and an otoshibuta or a weight so it remains submerged. Keep the liquid at a gentle simmer for 25–30 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 165ºF/74ºC, then transfer the chicken to a plate and loosely cover so it rests and reabsorbs juices. The finished chashu should be tender, moist, with a smooth, sliceable texture and a pale, glazed surface—ready to be thinly sliced once cooled.
In a small pan, combine neutral oil with the chicken-skin pieces, minced garlic, and both light and dark green parts of the negi; cook slowly over low heat until the skin and aromatics have yielded deep savory compounds and the oil takes on a golden, fragrant clarity—about 10–15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh, pressing gently to extract every last glossy drop; the resulting aroma oil will be a clear, warm-gold liquid flecked with tiny green scallion fragments and the ghost of roasted chicken—concentrated, aromatic, and silky.

Combine the small reserved amount of cold brew dashi with sake, mirin, soy sauce, optional fish sauce, and the measured kosher salt in a small pot. Bring to a gentle boil, simmer briefly, and then add the katsuobushi; if using thick shavings, simmer a few minutes and strain, or if using thin shavings, steep off heat. The shio tare should finish as a balanced, saline seasoning base—crystal-clear with an anchoring umami depth and a slightly sweet mirin lift.
Score and peel the outer layers of the white negi stalk, julienne into fine shiraga negi and soak briefly to tame bitterness; reserve the inner core for other uses. Slice green onion thinly, measure the menma, and halve ramen eggs cleanly for glossy yolks. Slice the cooled chicken chashu about ¼ inch thick; optionally torch the surface for a faint char and warmer color. Everything should be cleanly prepared: the shiraga airy and white, menma fibrous and glossy, egg yolks custardy and vivid, chashu slices tender and slightly caramelized at the edges.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, cook fresh ramen noodles just shy of your preferred doneness, then time each bowl: place 2 tablespoons shio tare and 1 tablespoon aroma oil into a matte grey ceramic ramen bowl, pour 350 ml warmed broth into each bowl, then transfer and neatly arrange the noodles so they coil with height. Top with arranged chicken chashu slices, two ramen-egg halves with glossy yolks, a small mound of shiraga negi, ¼ cup menma, a scattering of sliced green onion, and a light thread of aroma oil on the surface. Serve immediately—each bowl should look composed and inviting, the clear broth shimmering, noodles springy, chashu glossy, and yolks luminous.
